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Can a complete novice build a Classic Clock from one
of our kits? Customer Penny Pendleton finds out...
My husband had brought home a Classic Clock brochure some time ago but,
although keen to have a go, had not got around to doing anything about
it. I was looking for something different for my new project and told
myself that I could do it – I could do it (perhaps
with a little help from a friend!).
This project was started with a great deal of apprehension on my part,
but I kept reassuring myself that the Kit 3/3a, single fusee skeleton
clock, was the clock for me. I could have opted for the easier route by
choosing one of the models offered with a milled frame, thus avoiding
the fettling of a cast frame. But I wanted the greater involvement –
and anyway the Gothic design appealed to me, especially as it offered
the hour-strike option.
The final decider to go ahead was the Classic Clock Kit guarantee that if I couldn’t complete the reassembly of the finished components, or get my clock to run, they would do it for me free of charge for the labour.
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Within a week of ordering the kit arrived with the unfinished components assembled and running, so I knew everything was in order and could study the working principles of the clock. The act of dismantling the clock gave me a hands-on familiarity of the fitted components.
The disassembly complete, the first step was the filing of the inside edges of the frame plates, using the appropriate-type needle files where it was not |
| above: Single Train Fusee Skeleton Clocks being assembled in the Classic Clocks workshop for pre-despatch testing (click to see an enlargement) |
possible to use the hand files. I was very appreciative of the clear and comprehensive instructions on all of the finishing processes that came with the kit. (they came by way of a reproduction of an 8-page illustrated article on the finishing of a Classic Clock Kit, written by John Wilding FBHI for the 'Clocks' magazine).
When a smooth surface had been obtained on the insides of the frame plates, the outer edges were then done in the same manner. Both edges were then cleaned with grades 400 and 600 emery paper, finishing with fine polishing paper (2/0 and Crocus), using the advised tips on preserving sharp edges to the frame (I did the back frame first!). |
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| above right: an exploded diagram of a Single Train Skeleton - Kit 3 shown (click to see an enlargement of the image) |
I gave the frames a highly polished finish with Autosol, followed with
Brasso (other than the usual household tools, the files and polishing
materials were the only items that I needed), then cleaned out any particles
in the pre-drilled frame holes.
I gave the same treatment to the other components, and finally all of
the parts were ready for a final Brasso polishing before assembly (the
reverse of the dismantling) for which I wore cotton gloves to avoid finger-marking
the brass. Precise instructions for the assembly were included with the
kit.
Now, the big question was - would it work? Much to everybody's amazement,
including my own, it did! I was now the proud owner of an immaculate skeleton
clock.
Although running perfectly, naturally some adjustments were required to
get the clock running ‘in beat’ and to set the pendulum for
accurate time-keeping. I had a few problems with this, but sorted them
out using the Classic Clock help-line.
All that remained now was to decide upon mounting and presentation. Here
I was faced with a number of options – a square base with a covering
glass cabinet, or an oval or round base mounted with glass dome. My husband
was so impressed with my efforts that he volunteered to make a mahogany
framed cabinet, for which I chose a deep maroon velvet-lined floor on
which to mount our jointly-constructed masterpiece - and future family
heirloom!
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